Fashion Segregation – is that what we’re doing now?

The Italian version is arguably the ‘troubled middle-child’ dans famille Vogue…

The rather wonderful, Franca Sozzani is knowingly provocative, I love how she uses politics and society to guide her magazine. I adore the gritty glamour of post-surgery fashion and rehab fashion, bravely taking ownership the Mokita of fashionistas.

I almost admired the fashion forwardness of the Black Issue back in 2008. I admired Sozzani’s worldliness. Barak Obama has just got through the US election preliminaries, being black was cool, and therefore commercial.

But what struck me about the black issue, was how incredible Caucasian the models were, not a curly hair in sight, their features were narrow (the only real exception being Alex Wek) – it was quite the whitest black issue you could imagine.

And by making a special issue, for black models, surely that was setting the standard that the rest of the magazine, the rest of the year was white…?

In 2009, came the Barbie issue, again it was ok to be black, if you were thin and made of plastic:

Italian Vogue has recently launched three new online portals, from their core site

VOGUEBlack, VOGUECurvy and VOGUETalents.

Surely fashion is fashion, icons are icons and beauty is beauty. Admittedly caucasian skin and negro skin have different requirements from make-up and cosmetics, and curvy models need underwiring. But still it leaves me with the feeling that Italian Vogue, in it’s essence, remains white and thin.


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